Review: Blackstar ID:Core Stereo 100

Hello and welcome to this week's article!

Today we're going to review a very interesting digital combo, which is an evolution of the smaller ID Core range (which are up to 40w, while these 2 larger ones are 100 and 150w) and which have as main difference the fact that instead of having small full range speakers, these ones have 2x10 guitar speakers: the Blackstar ID:Core Stereo 100!

The choice of full range speakers or 10 inches speakers may set somebody off, since the standard for guitar is a 12 inches one, but this is a compromise solution to fit 2 speakers in a smaller, lightweight package (which is almost as small as the size of a regular 1x12 combo) and allowing the player to take full advantage of the "Super Wide Stereo" technology, which lets us playback an mp3 (via Aux) and practice along with it listening in stereo, while most of the practice combo amps, having just 1 speaker, lets you playback only in mono.
This speaker choice targets the amp towards practicing musicians which play more at home along with mp3s than for live musicians, since live there is usually more need of a 12 inch speaker to have all the low end thump, which is less strong in a 10 inch one, but at the same time with 100w there is enough power to stay on top of a live drumkit, also for rehearsals.

Besides the speaker, the amp offers 6 voicing controls, which range from clean to the most extreme hi-gain, a looper up to 30 seconds, 12 effects, a software suite for in-depth editing, usb recording, speaker emulated out and so on, making the ID:Core a Swiss army knife for the practicing musician, and the 100 and 150w versions have enough power to play live with no problems, all in a convenient 12.5kg package.

How does it sound? It sounds quite well! Blackstar Amps, especially for high gain, are some of the best sounding practicing amps, with musical mids and the proprietary ISF, Infinite shape feature, which is a knob that lets you pass from a US type of gain to a British one and everything in between.
The cleans are good and the distortions sounds almost "produced"; in this the amp the tone in general is less raw and "in your face" than a Boss Katana, but it sounds brighter (maybe also because of the speaker choice) and very pleasant, it just has a different grain and you'll have to compare them to find which one is more suited for you.

Thumbs up!

Specs taken from the website:

- 100W (SUPER WIDE STEREO 2x50W)

- 6 Blackstar voices

- Looper with 30 seconds record time and infinite overdubs

- Patented ISF control

- 12 vintage style effects including Octaver

- Store up to 36 sounds

- USB Audio

- FREE INSIDER software

- Stereo MP3/Line In

- Speaker Emulated Line Out

- Stereo Effects Loop

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Pre-count, Pre-roll and auto punch! What are they and why you should use them.

Hello everyone and welcome to this week's article!

Today we're going to talk about three functions, present in basically any DAW, which are fundamental when recording any instrument, and that sometimes gets overlooked: pre-count, pre-roll and the auto punch.

Pre-roll is something that comes from the analog world, it means that the track would start playing, making you hear what you have already recorded, and then the engineer would, by pressing a button, start recording you on the fly.
Today we can automate this function, and order to enable it in Studio One you need to press the O hotkey, or click on the pre-roll icon (the first arrow in the pic).
Then, by clicking on the wench icon (the second arrow in the pic), which brings us to the metronome setup menu, we can simply tick on or off the pre-roll and/enter the number of bars to play before starting recording. 
This way, once you will hit record, first it will make you listen to the previous 2 bars, so you can start already playing along with them, and then it will start recording automatically at the right point.

From that same menu you can activate also the Pre-count, which means that before playing or recording it will first play a set amount of metronome bars, to be ready with the right tempo before starting recording.
This function is used if you're starting your track from zero, so you don't have any part to play as pre-roll.

How does the computer know exactly, especially if it starts from 2 bars before, where to start recording and where to stop?
You need to select the area with the mouse, the recording will start and stop exactly within the selected part of the track.

Auto punch instead is another function that puts you in and out of record, as the track is playing back, meaning that you need to have the record button assigned to a hotkey (in Studio One is by default the NumPad * button), and as you play a track you can press the * key in real time to start recording, and press it again to stop recording, all without stopping the track from playback, which can be useful especially when tracking vocals, if you want to re-do just a word here and there without interrupting too much the flow.

I hope this was helpful!

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Review: Rivera Clubster 25 112

Hello everyone and welcome to this week's article!
Today we're going to talk about a legendary combo produced by Rivera amps in 2009, of which the latest version is still today on sale: the Rivera Clubster 25 112!

Rivera Amplifiers comes from the mind of Paul Rivera, a technician which worked also for Fender before opening his own brand, and today Rivera amps offers a full lineup of tube amplifiers which are known for their uncompromised sound and build quality.

The Clubster serie has several versions, 25w, 40w, with a 10 inches speaker and a 12 one, and the one I'm reviewing today is the 25w, 12" one.
The Rivera Clubster is a 2 channels tube amp, with several push-pull knobs in the eq to shape it furthermore and a spring reverb, but the most surprising thing is the volume and headroom: thanks to its oversized transformer, even the 25w version is more than capable of staying well above a rock drumkit, both in rehearsals room and live, all in a compact combo format.
The amp features 2 preamp tubes and 2 6V6 power amp ones, and immediately after switching it on you can feel the tube tone, which is loud, mid rangey, in your face and full of harmonics. 
The clean channel is really clean and chimey, and it has quite a lot of headroom considering it's 25w (obviously if you need even more headroom you must switch to the 40w version), and the high gain one has a very credible tone: balanced, pleasant and that it sounds almost "mix ready".
The overdrive channel can easily deliver heavier tones for genres such as hard rock without the need of a booster; a booster is necessary if you need the type of tightness used in death or thrash metal, though.
This said, I have seen a band using it also to play Dream Theater style (without a booster), with a 7 strings, and the tone was very similar to the Mesa one used by Petrucci: mid rangey, creamy and with a very loud power-amp roar.

The version currently on sale is the Clubster Royale Recording, which features also a loadbox integrated and speaker emulated output, so that you can record also bypassing the speaker, among the other new features, but the original Clubster soul is still there.

Still today a great, uncompromise sounding amp! Thumbs up!

Specs taken from the website:

- Channel 1 controls: Volume, bass (pull switch for boost), middle, treble, master

- Channel 2 controls: Volume (pull switch for channel selection), treble (pull switch for bright), bass

- Common front-panel inputs and controls: 1/4″ High Gain input, 1/4″ footswitch input, reverb control, presence control, power on/off switch

- Rear-panel inputs and outputs: 1/4″ effects loop send, 1/4″ effects loop return, 1/4″ line output, 1/4″ 

- external speaker output

- Preamp tubes: Two 12AX7A

- Output tubes: Two 6V6GT

- Output power: 25 watts RMS into 8 ohms

- Speaker: 12” Celestion 70/80

- Footswitch functions: Channel switching, reverb on/off (footswitch is included)

- Reverb: Accutronics® 3-spring reverb

- Height: 19.25″ (w/feet)

- Width: 18.25″

- Depth: 12″

- Weight: 38 lbs

- Cabinet material: 5/8″-thick plywood

- Construction: Dadoed joints

- Covering: Black Tolex

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Pre fader listen vs post fader listen

Hello and welcome to this week's article!

Today we're going to check out an important concept which is part of a proper gain staging setup, a simple check that will save us from having unwanted distortion into our tracks, the pre fader listen!.

By default, all the DAWS are set on post fader metering, meaning that if we are moving the volume fader in one channel, the meter of that channel (and the stereo buss) will rise or reduce accordingly.

The problem is that if the volume fader has as consequence the rise of the volume until a track clips, we don't know whether that channel, that recorded track with all the plugins processing it, is really already in distortion (or if it's too low in volume) BEFORE moving the volume fader (in that case we will have to check out whether there is some plugin that is clipping the signal or if the actual track is clipping).

To solve this problem we can choose in the DAW options (basically in every DAW) pre fader listen (something that is present also in many physical mixers), which swaps the position of the volume fader and the meter in single tracks or in the whole mixer.

What does this mean practically? It means that the volume fader still does its job, raising and lowering the volume, but the meter will keep showing us, regardless of the volume we decided, how hot is the audio track before entering in the volume fader, and whether the signal is already in clip or not (sometimes for example it's already in clip because the track is passing through some plugin, like some Compressor which maybe has a little too much make up gain).

By verifying the input and output level of all tracks (and therefore of all plugins on each track) we can make sure no track is clipping, and this is essential to perform a proper gain staging, thus having a perfeclty clear song.

One final note: press only one PFL button at a time, otherwise the meter will show the combination of all the active channels and plugins (in the stereo buss) and you won't know which one is too high or too low.

I hope this was helpful!

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